Firsts

Even though we've officially made it through two weeks in Oaxaca now, this week was defined by its firsts. One of the most significant firsts was produced by a return to intestinal regularity within the household...something I won't elaborate on here. Some of the more easily described firsts came with the onset of our new daily routine. Nayana is off to school at 6:45 in the morning, with Ella following at 7:45, and then Josh and I head over to the ICO for our school/work day at 9:00. We knew that this new schedule would bring lots of changes, including painful early-morning wake-ups (for everyone that doesn't share my early-morning affliction, that is) and a more rigid daily routine than the girls have faced all summer. Nonetheless, some aspects of this new routine were quite unexpected.

Take for example the homework load. Now, we're a conscientious homework household, not unaccustomed to long hours of toiling over projects. And we knew that the language barrier would require lots of hands-on tutoring to get the girls up to speed. Even still, we were totally unprepared for the seven-plus hours of homework that followed the girls home each day this first week. The load was remarkable for both its academic content and also its sheer volume, once again shattering the stereotypes we carry about the disparate quality of educational systems between north and south. Nayana's homework, for example, jumped straight into numerical systems, which did not stop at the Roman system but included Babylonian and Mayan—hardly common fare in North American schools. Furthermore, what seemed like an easy task—”Write each of the following numbers according to the different numerical systems”--turned out to be a lesson in our own ignorance. Josh and I could not for the life of us figure out how to solve the problems! Finding ourselves totally stumped by the Maya and having to tell Nayana that we couldn't help her was definitely a first.

Luckily, some of the other firsts included more pleasant discoveries. Take for instance my foray into a local wine store stocked with Mexican wines. Yes, you read right, Mexican wines! Call me ignorant, but in all my years as a West Coaster, I certainly had never come across Mexican wines before, much less a whole inventory full of what was promoted as high-end wine. Turns out that a long history of California wine industry protections and NAFTA laws prohibit such imports, once again highlighting that free trade does not mean equal flows from both directions. Almost all of the wines come from Baja California or Monterrey, and several boast an admirable wine-making tradition. Indeed one of the most famous, Casa Madero, represents itself as the oldest winery in the Americas, established by a Spaniard in 1597. Being a fan of the reds, I selected a range to sample, including a everyday Cab-Merlot blend (Montevina 07) and a more exclusive Zin-Grenache-Tempranillo blend (Los Danzantes 07). So far, I'm glad to report that the entry-level Montevina is not bad—quite fruity and round with hints of...well, can I say cactus? I don't think this particular one would substitute for some of my favorite Washington cabs, but it's definitely a step in the right direction. I'm hoping some of the higher-end wines make even more of a splash. Bad news is that this same store also carries a large selection of boutique mezcales, so I see another round of “firsts” in my future.

Other firsts include a long list of amazing foods that we've enjoyed this week. I guess I'm cheating if I mention the incredible carnitas al pastor tacos that we've had for the second time at the nearby market—stay tuned for pictures in upcoming posts. For those of you that know me well though, you'll note that my willingness to consume a whole taco of pork reflects another first. Other culinary feats included a refreshing horchata with cactus fruit, cafe de olla (coffee with cinnamon and panela), and some amazing breads that weren't exactly authentic Oaxacan products but nonetheless warrant mention. (You knew I'd find a way to fit food into this posting, didn't you?) Now if I could only find time to get to the gym, that would constitute yet another first for the week...and after this food, I need it!